Dandy & Rose

Bespoke Western Shirts, Handmade in England


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Floral seeks paisley for lifelong companionship…

I do so love mixing Liberty prints!

I have made quite a few mixed print shirts just for my own pleasure and amusement and just before Christmas, a brand new customer in Los Angeles bought one of those from my etsy.com shop

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/dandyandrose

lagos laurel/mitsy/claire aude

He enjoyed wearing it so much, and got so many compliments, that he got in touch to order another – my first mixed-print commission. He wanted to start with something pastel green, so I suggested the classic floral Liberty print ‘Capel’. After a bit of searching – no, a lot of searching – finding the right mix is a bit of a challenge – I came up with a colourway of the paisley Bourton that I thought looked divine next to it. It has a touch of sage green to tone with the floral, but enough blues and raspberry pinks to provide a real contrast. I’ve added a contrast placket to the cuff, which I have never done before.

I’m glad I set these two up to meet! I think they might have been made for each other…


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Measuring up for a summer dress

The postman just knocked on the door, delivering a piece of Liberty print that I had bought for me, just me!

I’m a sucker for anything that’s a play on tape measures… I’ve got a t-shirt with a trompe l’oeil tape measure round the neck, a leather tape measure bracelet… and now this:

chris

It’s called ‘Chris’. I saw it online, on a day when I had been wearing a favourite dress from this pattern, Butterick 5846:

B5846 drawing

That’s one of the best things about sewing… being able to find a pattern you love and make it up again and again in different fabrics. This time there will be lots of piping!


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Wild Bill Morris

SONY DSC

 

Last summer, I received an email from John Brisland. He had read my feature on Jim Lauderdale in Country Music People; he is a fan of Jim’s, so that’s the first thing we have in common!

Sharron Manley's shirt in Liberty 'Lodden' https://dandyandrose.com/2013/10/30/sharrons-shirt/I had mentioned in the piece that I make some of Jim’s shirts, so John came over to this website to look. That’s when he realised the other thing we have in common. We each see a link between the designs of the Arts and  Crafts movement and western styling. It seems perfectly natural to me to take a piece of Liberty fabric with a print designed in the nineteenth century, sometimes by William Morris himself, and turn it into a western shirt. Morris’ inspiration may have been the flora and fauna of England, but that’s no reason his birds, strawberries and thistles shouldn’t appear on that most American of garments, a western shirt. That’s perfectly sensible, isn’t it?

 

It turns out that John thinks the same way. As he puts it, ‘uncannily’. He is a retired art lecturer and printmaker who, for the last several years, has been working on a series of prints and watercolours called ‘Wild Bill Morris’. They show a rugged but well turned out retro cowboy surrounded by Morris-style floral patterns – that’s him at the top of the page. Like me, John is inspired by a love of country music; he also enjoys a joke. He told me that ‘Hank Wangford has always been a great hero of mine. That heartfelt love of classic country music, tempered by an affectionate humour and irreverence! I have always related to the tongue in cheek, the visual pun, the sense of ridiculous.’ So when, like all cowboys, Wild Bill gets the girl, she is, of course, called ‘Calamity Jane Burden’. Here are the two Jane Burdens together, John’s version looking much more cheerful than Mrs Morris. But I understand there were reasons for that.

 

Sock It To Em by John Brisland

Sock It To Em by John Brisland

 

 

 

Wild Bill also has a sidekick. I’m not sure what he’s called. Sherriff Burne Jones, maybe?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of John’s prints are inspired by the style of Nashville’s own Hatch Show Prints, like the one on the left, below. His watercolours, like the one beside it,  show a glorious sense of colour:

That’s why, after I met up with John a few weeks ago when he was down this way, I found myself with this fantastic painting on the workroom wall.

My John Brisland watercolour

My John Brisland watercolour

 

It’s such an inspiration to know that great minds think alike, if I might be immodest enough to say so!

 

 

 

 

 


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James House’s shirt

Back in (I think) 1989 I couldn’t stop playing an album I’d just bought called ‘James House’; so when Randy Travis played the London Palladium, excited as I was to see him, I was even more excited that James was his support act. I wasn’t disappointed!

James has been singing and writing ever since; last year, a top ten hit he had in 1995 called This is Me Missing You (great song!) became a country dance favourite over here in the UK, so he has toured here again and has a terrific new album out called Songwriter’s Serenade. Here he is performing the first single from it with co-writer Natalie Noone on a recent Music City Roots:

I was delighted to run into him at the Belfast Nashville Songwriter Festival a few weeks ago – and to get to plan his first Dandy & Rose shirt with him. James likes to wear black onstage, and that’s good, but it’s just not in my nature to make an entirely black shirt. So we searched the Liberty Spring/Summer15 range and hit on a subtle, swirly print, ‘Karter’ in white, grey and lilac.

I love a plain shirt with print piping! The very first shirt I made from a vintage western shirt pattern was dark blue chambray with piping made from some Liberty print that I had left over from a dress I’d made and although I love the all-over print shirts I make, and the ones with contrast yokes, it’s nice to go back to that idea and rework it.

Here’s the original, from 2010, with the 1950s pattern I used for it:

I made James’ shirt, both the plain and print parts, entirely from Liberty’s tana lawn so it should feel good to wear and be nice and cool for the stage. I couldn’t resist putting a single lilac pearl snap on the front… very Dandy & Rose!


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Having a spangly Christmas

I’ve had a lot of encounters with peacock feathers this year; I’ve made four shirts from Liberty’s ‘Hera’, after all.

But when I saw these tree ornaments in a local shop, they brought another peacock feather motif to mind – the one used by the great rhinestone tailors, Nudie Cohn and Manuel Cuevas, about whose work I am writing my PhD.

I had to buy them. And then I had to buy a Christmas tree to go with them. I am grateful for the Barbie pink theme they have brought to its decor.

After a bit of a search, I found a couple of examples of suits embroidered with the distinctive Nudie peacock feather – Elton John and Mike Nesmith are wearing them:

And then I remembered this clip of Jim Lauderdale, who likes to team his Dandy & Rose shirts with a pair of jade green Manuel trousers with peacock feathers embroidered on the lower leg. There’s a close up of them at the beginning of the clip, but keep watching, because just after that, he sings my favourite song of the year…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btwdCBFdeLI


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Christopher Dresser’s ‘Hera’ design

Last time I made a shirt in Liberty’s iconic ‘Hera’ design, I wrote that it was designed by Arthur Silver of Silver Studios. I was working from a book by Barbara Morris, published in 1975 on the occasion of Liberty’s Centenary exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Not long afterwards, I received an email from the Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture at University of Middlesex to say that it had more likely been designed by this venerable gentleman: the pioneer designer Christopher Dresser (1834 – 1904).

Christopher-Dresser_0

Harry Lyons, author of ‘Christopher Dresser: The People’s Designer’ has been in touch and added some information. He tells me that

“The “Hera” design was registered as a woven silk in 1876 by William Fry, Dublin – a company to whom Dr Dresser supplied designs. At that time Silver was aged 23 and working for HW Batley. The Silver Studio did not get going until c1882/3.”

So it seems like it was almost certainly Christopher Dresser who designed those beautiful peacock feathers. They have been used in many different forms – I once had an Arts & Crafts settle whose seats were covered in a woven Liberty furnishing fabric in the design and there have been some beautiful silk scarves based on it. But this is what it looks like when it’s printed on Liberty’s famous cotton fabric, tana lawn. And made into a western shirt.

 


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Dandy & Rose Day Trip!

There’s nothing I like better than a tour of a factory. Well, hardly anything.

My Mum and Dad met when they both worked in a factory – Alfred Herbert Ltd – in wartime Coventry, flirting at snap time while they swapped sandwiches. It must have been quite some attraction because Dad’s were, so the family legend has it, always spread with margarine and Bovril, whereas Mum was more likely to have butter and meat paste, so she lost out on the deal.

This is an advertisement for Alfred Herbert from 1943, which is about the year they met.

Maybe that’s why I love to see how things are made. My favourite part of my first grown-up job, as a purchasing officer for soft furnishings in the public sector, was touring textile factories; just before that, I’d made a study of the footwear industry that involved watching shoes take shape. You can take a girl out of the Midlands…

So when, at a University reunion, I discovered that my old friend Jon Allen was now Managing Director of Pike Textile Display in Wisbech, Cambridgeshire, I jumped at his offer of a factory tour. Pike make display books for most of the big guns in the British textile industry, including Liberty, whose fabrics I use for Dandy & Rose shirts.

I was astonished to see how much detailed planning goes into making a pattern book, and how many people work on each product, dextrously and precisely lining up fabrics, sticking on labels and overlocking edges. I specially enjoyed my time with Christine and Sue, who let me watch as they assembled a hanging display for Liberty’s 2016 Spring/Summer range. Here they are, starting off the process by getting the fabrics in the right order and trimming them to a manageable size:

Once the fabrics are cut to their final size and the edges are finished, there’s another careful laying out. The ladies work with all the Liberty fabrics, not just the notoriously light and floaty tana lawn that I have to gain mastery of for my western shirts, but the impossibly fluid and slippery silk crepe de chine and ethereal voile that I scarcely dare touch. They have to lay and cut each one perfectly straight and perfectly square.

Many thanks to Christine and Sue for being so welcoming and taking the time to show me what they do, and to Jon for the invitation and tour of the factory. I had a great day out and psssst… I got a sneak preview of the fabrics I’ll be making western shirts from in a year’s time!


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Made to make your mouth water

This is the second shirt I’ve made to commission in ‘Poppyseed Dreams’, a print that Liberty say was inspired by Indian textile art and that hints at Sixties’ psychedelia.

Back in the Sixties, I wasn’t old enough to enjoy psychedelia; but one thing I did like was an Opal Fruit.

Yes, I know they have renamed and reflavoured the chewy cuboid sweets (Starburst! I ask you!) but to me they will always be Opal Fruits. And when I look at the zingy citrus colours in this shirt, I can almost feel the back of my palate shrinking away from the citrus pinch that oozed from the green ones as you bit into them. I always left the green ones till last. It wasn’t that I didn’t like them – I just needed to work up to them.

Maybe it was those green opal fruits that inspired the lime snaps on this shirt:

Incidentally, the Opal Fruits jingle must have been the most insidious ever. I remember it to this day; in fact I used to sing it to entertain my kids on long car journeys, simultaneously stuffing their faces with Starburst. It went like this:

“Opal fruits! Made to make your mouth water!

Fresh with the tang of citrus!

Four refreshing fruit flavours!

Orange! Stawberry! Lemon! Lime!

Opal fruits! Made to make your mouth water!”

I know I put a lot of exclamation marks in there, but that’s the way it was sung – with a chirpy sense of urgency.

The oldest version of the ad I can find online dates from the Seventies, by which time, sadly, only the first line of the song was in use. But I remember the whole lyric. Like I said: insidious.


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Remember, Remember

I love the Bonfire celebration we have here in Lewes on November 5th.

Like everyone else, we celebrate the deliverance of King James I in 1605 from the dastardly Catholic plot to blow him and his Parliament sky high, known as the Gunpowder Plot. Guy Fawkes, who had the job of setting the explosives, is the most famous (and most reviled) of the plotters.

The celebrations in Lewes are given a special resonance by the town’s fiercely Protestant history; we also use the occasion to commemorate the deaths of seventeen Protestant martyrs, who were burned at the stake in the town between 1555 and 1558, during Mary Tudor’s attempt to re-establish Roman Catholocism as the religion of England. Brewers, farmers, servants – it’s very moving to think of these ordinary folk who died so horribly and so bravely for their faith.

Of course, the Marian persecutions took place all over England, but the Lewes executions have lived on in folk memory, perhaps because of the town’s rivalry with the town of Arundel over in West Sussex, a centre of Catholicism and Civil War Royalism (Boo!! Hiss!!) .

These days, of course, Lewes is as agnostic as the rest of Britain, but the Bonfire tradition continues and grows as an expression of local independance and pride. The town has seven Bonfire Societies ; each one organises a series of spectacular torchlight processions that include seventeen burning crosses, each bearing the name of a Lewes martyr. Society members drag effigies of Guy Fawkes through the streets, along with burning tar barrels, into which they toss fireworks  as they go. Each society produces a satirical ‘tableau’ that ridicules (sometimes fondly, sometimes not so fondly) a newsworthy figure; they are, of course, stuffed with fireworks, which are detonated at the end of the night. This year, two societies produced tableaux featuring Alex Salmond that somehow became national news; the fuss confirmed that the rest of Britain just doesn’t ‘get’ Lewes Bonfire.

Commercial Square Bonfire Society had an Alex Salmond tableau too

 

The evening ends with seven huge firework displays; they are really, properly awesome.

But never mind all that; my favourite part of Bonfire is the fancy dress costumes we wear for the procession. Each Society has a band of smugglers wearing striped jumpers in its special colours. I’m in Waterloo Bonfire Society and our jumpers are red and white, but I’ve never worn one, because I just can’t resist the opportunity to make and wear a fancy dress costume; other societies have groups of Zulus, Native Americans, American Civil War soldiers (both sides), Vikings and many more. In Waterloo, we have a choice of Tartars; Victorians; Greeks and Romans; and Tudors. There are smaller groups too and when my children were younger, we were a family of highwaymen:

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This year I achieved my ambition of joining Waterloo’s Tudors. For about 15 years, I had been storing seven metres of garishly coloured but Tudorish patterned upholstery velvet that I bought in a Laura Ashley sale, just in case  I ever needed to make a Tudor costume.  Only in Lewes would this be a sensible purchase!

This year it came out of the loft and I made it up using Simplicity 3782. I chose the collared version because it can get awfully chilly marching around and even chillier waiting for the fireworks to start, and it doesn’t do to have bare shoulders!

I bought a metre of figured curtain velvet for the skirt panel, collar and sleeve piping, and although it’s not a Tudor colour, I went for magenta – because in Lewes Bonfire, colour and sparkle win out over authenticity. A touch of gold lace, some sparkling buttons, 6 metres of gold braid and a couple of hundred rhinestones later, I had this:

My daughter Martha Jane made me a beautiful tiara. Find her jewellery on her Facebook page, Zephyr Jewellery.

https://www.facebook.com/SilverZephyrJewellery/info

Next year I plan to add a gold lace veil: I can’t wait!

It was such fun to make a costume; I didn’t feel I needed to pay as much attention to precision as I do with Dandy & Rose shirts, and I loved being able to glue on rhinestones! The night was brilliant! Apparently there were 40,000 people watching the procession and fireworks. My friend Sara visited from Sweden especially for the occasion and brought a fabulous costume she’d made; one of my favourite moments was being stopped on our way to the procession and asked to pose with a small girl who clearly thought we might be princesses!

Here we are buying an incongruous bag of chips between processions:

118and posing with a Victorian soldier of our acquaintance at the Waterloo Bonfire site:

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And with the rest of the Waterloo Tudor crew:

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Iris

Brightley A. Andrew Bristow. Back. October 2014

As Autumn has arrived and the weather has turned wetter and greyer here in Sussex, I’ve been glad to work with this invigorating Spring-like print.

It’s called ‘Brightley’ and although it’s from the Liberty London Autumn/Winter range, its burgeoning, blooming irises and fuschias speak of a sunnier, more flourishing season.

So just as well it is off to Australia, where, I am led to believe, it really is Spring at the moment. It was commissioned by Andrew Bristow, who wants something colourful to wear when he plays bass in The Mighty Surftones.

Liberty say that the print was hand painted on a large scale to give a feeling of growth; they remind us that the Iris that is at the heart of the design is named after the mythical messenger of the Greek gods and that her symbol was the rainbow. I like to think that it also honours my Mum, Iris Aspley, who taught me to sew and will be 90 years old next March. A Spring baby, well named.