Dandy & Rose

Bespoke Western Shirts, Handmade in England


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Stealing Strawberries

‘Strawberry Thief’ is probably the best known of William Morris’ designs, inspired by the sight of the thrushes stealing fruit in his garden at Kelmscott Manor . He first made a successful print of it in 1883; the Victoria and Albert Museum hold this original sample, which is not a million miles away from the lively colourway that leapt out of the pattern book and grabbed the attention of my customer on the day she chose this shirt.

“That’s the one!” she shouted – and she was right.

Morris was a teenage hero of mine, and my interest in him was the first glimmer of my love of design history. The Arts and Crafts movement was based on his hatred of industrialisation and forlorn hope that we could return to smaller scale, cleaner methods of production that preserved traditional crafts. I hope if he could have seen me toiling away in my workroom, making a one-off western shirt in his beautiful design, that he would have approved.


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Danny Wilson’s blooming shirt

Angelica Garla for Danny Wilson Front left

 

Here at Dandy and Rose the flowers are blooming both in the garden and on Danny Wilson’s latest shirt.

He’ll be wearing the shirt over the summer at gigs to promote Danny & The Champions of the World’s brand new album, What Kind of Love. It’s a life-affirming slice of country soul and I highly recommend that you give it a listen – you can stream it at The Line of Best Fit:

http://www.thelineofbestfit.com/features/track-by-track/track-by-track-danny-the-champions-of-the-world-on-what-kind-of-love

Fearless as ever, Danny has chosen a riotous floral – Liberty’s ‘Angelica Garla’. I’ve made the yoke scalloped and added a smile pocket. I’ll be delivering it before The Champs’ gig at Islington Assembly Hall tomorrow evening. I can’t wait to see how it looks on Danny!


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Christopher Dresser’s ‘Hera’ design

Last time I made a shirt in Liberty’s iconic ‘Hera’ design, I wrote that it was designed by Arthur Silver of Silver Studios. I was working from a book by Barbara Morris, published in 1975 on the occasion of Liberty’s Centenary exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Not long afterwards, I received an email from the Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture at University of Middlesex to say that it had more likely been designed by this venerable gentleman: the pioneer designer Christopher Dresser (1834 – 1904).

Christopher-Dresser_0

Harry Lyons, author of ‘Christopher Dresser: The People’s Designer’ has been in touch and added some information. He tells me that

“The “Hera” design was registered as a woven silk in 1876 by William Fry, Dublin – a company to whom Dr Dresser supplied designs. At that time Silver was aged 23 and working for HW Batley. The Silver Studio did not get going until c1882/3.”

So it seems like it was almost certainly Christopher Dresser who designed those beautiful peacock feathers. They have been used in many different forms – I once had an Arts & Crafts settle whose seats were covered in a woven Liberty furnishing fabric in the design and there have been some beautiful silk scarves based on it. But this is what it looks like when it’s printed on Liberty’s famous cotton fabric, tana lawn. And made into a western shirt.

 


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Twinkle, twinkle….

Photograph by Anthony Scarlati

Photograph by Anthony Scarlati

For the first show of Music City Roots’ Fall season, host Jim Lauderdale showed off both a new bluegrass song and a new Dandy & Rose shirt.

The song, a sprightly number, is called Don’t Count Me Out and he opened the show with it – the video is here:

http://new.livestream.com/MusicCityRoots/live/videos/64354366

The print is new too, from Liberty’s Autumn/Winter 2014 range. It’s called  ‘Midnight’.

It’s one of my favourites ever, with its dazzling details and darkly beautiful colouring. I finished the shirt with a fancy stitch and sneaked in a burgundy collar stand – we all need a little warmth next to our face at this time of year!

Liberty say that the design was ‘hand drawn in ink on tracing paper’ then shaded with graphic pens; it was inspired by the night sky over the Isle of Bute in Scotland – hence the twinkling, exploding, shooting stars in amongst the paisleys.

There are four colourways. Liberty printed them on denim as well as on the tana lawn that I used for Jim’s shirt. A few days ago I was in Liberty’s Regent Street store and couldn’t resist buying a metre of denim in that hot orange and pink colourway – I plan to make myself a skirt as soon as I’ve got a couple of hours to spare!


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All’s right with the world

Sometimes I wonder if pattern matching has become a dangerous obsession with me.

But there’s something about placing and matching patterns that’s strangely reassuring. When that 3 point yoke was all stitched into place onto the back of the shirt and I saw the peacock feathers line up, I knew that all was right with the world.

Even more so when I realised that I had made the pattern run all the way down from the collar to the back of the shirt, completely by accident; I had already done the same thing with the button band.

Pretty soon I’ll be matching patterns in my sleep. Now that’s obsession!

This is Liberty’s ‘Hera’ – I wrote a little bit about the history of the print a few weeks ago.

Thank you, Arthur Silver! (or Christopher Dresser)


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Ianthe: an art nouveau classic

Sometimes an idea for a shirt just pops into my head – style and fabric together, and I can’t get it out.

This one is like that. I enjoyed working with the peacock feather print ‘Hera’ so much that I wanted to take on the challenge of this other traditional design and for some reason, the shirt just had to have short sleeves.

It’s called ‘Ianthe’ and its inclusion in the Liberty range reflects the company’s art nouveau heritage. According to their website, it is a reworking of a design by the French designer R. Beauclair from 1900. ‘Ianthe’ means purple flower in Greek, so perhaps the original design featured purple flowers; but this strong red and blue is my favourite of the current colourings.


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Mixing it up

I’ve always loved mixed print shirts.One of my most-worn garments is a ruffled shirt I bought years ago that mixes two stripes and a paisley. Every time I wear it, people ask if I made it myself and I wish I could say ‘yes’.

The trouble is, mixing prints is pretty tricky and mixing Liberty prints is even more of a challenge, because most of their prints contain loads of colours, squaring up to fight with each other.

I’m slowly building up my confidence with mixing it up though. I’m really pleased with this shirt in Liberty’s classic paisley ‘Bourton’ with yokes in ‘Ellie Ruth’. At this time of year I like to make something in Autumn colours and today the rain stopped long enough for me to take my model (I call him ‘Bud’. Not after the John Travolta character in Urban Cowboy, but because he came in a box marked ‘Budget Price’) outside to be photographed in the Autumn light, The rich rusts, reds and greens of the fabrics come through really well, I think. The shirt has green snaps.

Find this shirt for sale at:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/168609039/hand-made-one-of-a-kind-mans-western?