Dandy & Rose

Bespoke Western Shirts, Handmade in England


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Wonderland

 

back yoke

Sometimes people take a while to work up to ordering their first Dandy & Rose shirt.

It’s at least a couple of years since Declan Culliton, over there in Ireland, started following Dandy & Rose and saying that he was hoping his wife and daughters would buy him a shirt for Christmas. Well, they must have taken the hint!

And look what a beautiful print he has chosen!

It’s from Liberty’s recent Alice in Wonderland range, and came out of an Alice-themed tour of Oxford that the Liberty Design Studio took, in search of inspiration. The landscape is the Christ Church Water Meadows, where Charles Dodgson took young Alice Liddell and her sisters on boat trips while he was writing his famous book, published under his nom de plume, Lewis Carroll.

There is something about those lilac tree trunks that is absolutely magical!

front left with boots

For details of how to order a bespoke shirt of your own, click on the SHOP tab.

 

 


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Dandy & Rose in Americana Music Association week 2015

I don’t make it out to the Americana Music Association Conference every September, but when I do, it makes my year!

This year I was in Nashville for almost 3 weeks, attending the conference and researching for my PhD on rhinestone tailoring in the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum.

And of course, I had my eyes peeled for Dandy & Rose shirts!

The first one I spotted was on Rod Picott, whose album launch for Fortune was at Third & Lindsley the day after I arrived. Good timing or what? It was a great show. I love the album and it was wonderful to hear Rod play the songs live with a fab band of great Nashville players. And look what he was wearing! I took this photo of him in his Dandy & Rose shirt

rodandband

Scottish singer songwriter Dean Owens was in town too and we spent some time nursing our jet lag over several cups of coffee the morning after Rod’s gig. I didn’t make it out to the special AMA week Music City Roots (so much to do!), but Dean did. He wore his Dandy & Rose shirt and made my day by seeking out the show’s host Jim Lauderdale, so I could achieve an ambition of seeing two  of my favourite singer songwriters wearing Dandy & Rose at the same time!

Dean Owens and Jim Lauderdale, Nashville 2015

Jim’s shirt is a paisley that was brand new for AMA week. I was sewing like mad in the couple of weeks before I went out to Tennessee to get this one and another, in the classic Liberty floral ‘Ros’ ,finished in time. My reward was to see him wear the floral shirt with a beautiful suit by Manuel when he played his showcase on the Friday night. I’d been lucky enough to interview my tailoring hero a few days earlier, so it was a thrill to see that Jim had combined my work with his again. I loved the sharply western-tailored blue/red pinstripe suit he wore. The showcase was stunning too – Jim was fronting a band with Luther and Cody Dickinson of The North Mississippi AllStars at its core, and he debuted songs from his new double album, Soul Searching.

Well, what could I do? I just had to pose with Jim for  a photo after the show!not simpering - Copy

The following week on Music City Roots, he wore the same shirt again, this time with jeans, proving that you can dress a Dandy & Rose up or down! I went along to the show – it was Australia Night, so I got to hear some excellent music from folks who were new to me. And I was delighted to get a shout-out from Jim about 35 minutes into the show, right in the banana pudding portion of the show! What an honour! It made me smile!

MCR audience

The show is available to watch here: Music City Roots September 23rd


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Making a paisley splash!

front leftA few months ago, I made a shirt in palest blue paisley for a lovely lady called Lorna, who now lives in the USA, but is a native of Paisley in Scotland. I called the piece ‘The Prettiness of Paisley’ and you can read it here:

The Prettiness of Paisley

Well, Lorna has left pretty and pastel behind, and for her latest shirt has chosen a brand new Liberty of London paisley called Cadby’s in reds, greens and blues. I piped her shirt in navy blue and added emerald green snaps.

What a wonderful splash of colour!

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What do I have?

Something happened yesterday to make me reflect on what it is that I and other people making a living (or part of it) out of their creativity really have to offer.

Of course, we have our skills with guitar or camera or, in my case, needle.

But what we really have is our vision. Our ideas. The songwriters I work with have their melodies and their lyrics, their ‘something to play’ and ‘something to say’. The photographers who so generously give me access to the pictures they take of musicians in Dandy & Rose shirts have their eye for a shot, their ‘something to see’.

I can’t write songs or take pictures and I try to run my business in a way that acknowledges the talents of those who can.

I have something to sew.

My vision was to bring together my love of country music; my academic expertise in the history of American western wear; the artisan skills that are part of my family heritage; and the very English Liberty of London prints that I have loved since my teen years as a William Morris groupie. I didn’t even do it on purpose, really; not so long ago, I was the Mum in my kids’ school playground surprisingly dressed in a western shirt hand made from Liberty prints. Now I am making my shirts for people all around the world. It’s taken 5 years of hard work and learning – I even learned to build a website – to build up Dandy & Rose. I will never make my fortune at it, but having my creative vision acknowledged means the world to me.

My heart is in Dandy & Rose. I like to think that my customers – whether they are teachers, events managers, designers, musicians, road managers – get a personal service and end up with the shirt that is absolutely theirs. I take the greatest care helping them choose their fabric. When I am cutting and sewing, I never forget the belief they have shown in me, and my English Liberty print western shirt vision, by placing their order.

Yesterday, a friend drew my attention to a public Facebook post. I didn’t know the person involved, but because we are both members of the community that has grown up around Americana music here in the UK, we had 16 friends in common, including one of my customers and a handful of supporters who regularly ‘like’ and comment on my Facebook posts.

Alongside some photographs of a Liberty print western shirt was his announcement that he planned to launch a sideline to his family wedding dress business making… you guessed it, Liberty print western shirts. He said that he planned to ask the Nashville-based artist who was playing the venue he runs yesterday evening to wear the shirt. Here it is:

At the top of this page is the shirt that I made a couple of months back for the Scottish singer/songwriter Dean Owens. Spot the difference!

I love Dean’s music and especially his very beautiful and moving latest album, Into the Sea. We picked out the fabric, Liberty’s ‘Lady Paisley’ for his shirt together in between sets when he played Brighton in the summer. It’s his first Dandy & Rose and I was glad he made such a bold choice. I gave the shirt a back yoke shape that reflected the pattern and made sure the finish was super sharp. It’s a large, complicated print, so I placed the patterns really carefully. It’s Dean’s shirt. Unique to him. That’s what I do.

Here are some shots of him looking right at home in it on a recent visit to Nashville. On the left, he is posing with the great singer/songwriter who has been my cheerleader from the get-go, Jim Lauderdale. I loved seeing them together in their Dandy & Rose shirts.

It hurts to think that someone would copy Dean’s shirt and give the results to another singer to wear onstage. I wouldn’t do that, and I don’t expect anyone else to either. I am so mad, on both my behalf and Dean’s, that I could spit.

I challenged the person involved. During our conversation, he denied that the shirt was a copy. I’ll leave that one to the evidence of your eyes.

He said he didn’t know anything about me and my business, had never heard of Dean (what?!) and that he just had some Liberty fabrics in stock and fancied making them into western shirts. He said the pattern was a vintage western shirt pattern and anyone could make it. He said he didn’t mean to hurt my business, promised not to undercut me and suggested there was room for two makers of Liberty print western shirts on this little island.

Well, maybe all that is true.

And maybe, even if someone hijacks my creative vision, and even if they cut a garment to make it look like one of mine, they still haven’t stolen anything from me, because no one can take the bit of my heart that gave rise to it.

But all the same: don’t copy my work, will you? And please don’t ask anyone else to do it. It’s not cheap to buy a Dandy & Rose, and most of the people who have one have pushed the financial boundaries to do it. But if you invest, I promise that, as my customer Rod Picott tweeted recently, you’ll have ‘the best shirt ever’.rod picott Twitter Search

rod

Rod Picott in ‘The Best Shirt Ever’


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Dean Owens’ shirt

Dean Owens' shirt in 'Lady Paisley'

Dean Owens’ shirt in ‘Lady Paisley’

One of the things I love about making a shirt to commission for a musician is being able to listen to them play while I sew. It’s the perfect coming together of two of my favourite things: clothes and music.

The Scottish singer/songwriter Dean Owens picked out this wonderful Liberty print during a break between sets when he played The Greys in Brighton a few weeks ago. It’s called ‘Lady Paisley’; there are paisley motifs hidden everywhere in those beautiful Indian-style floral motifs. Placing the pattern was quite a challenge but as it came together, I really loved it. I cut the back yoke to reflect the pattern.

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While I cut, piped and sewed I listen to Dean’s beautiful and moving latest album Into The Sea:

and to his acoustic album of songs by and about Johnny Cash, Cashback. It’s a long time favourite album and includes one of my favourite covers of one of my favourite Johnny Cash songs, I Still Miss Someone.


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Is it a bird? Is it a ruffle?

… then it must be Danny George Wilson’s new shirt!

Storm ruffles front left

Danny loves the Liberty of London print ‘Storm’ with its sweeping birds. It was designed for Liberty by Storm Thorgerson, who also designed Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of The Moon album cover, amongst many others. One day I hope someone orders a shirt in the print based on his prism design for that cover, which is called ‘Thorgerson’.

Thorgerson

Brilliant isn’t it?

Danny already has a shirt with touches of this print on the yokes, and he already has a shirt with ruffles. Now we’ve put these two good ideas together!

To see the ready made shirt in’Storm’ in my etsy.com shop, or find out how to order a bespoke shirt of your own, go to

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/dandyandrose?ref=hdr_shop_menu

 

Photograph by John Morgan www.JohnnyCajon.com

Photograph by John Morgan http://www.JohnnyCajon.com

Danny Champ


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The Prettiness of Paisley

The paisley motif comes originally from Iran; its meaning is debated by design historians, but it may represent a twisted tree or floral bouquet.

The shape became popular in Europe when Kashmir shawls using the design began to be imported from India in the seventeenth century. Spurred on by the invention of the Jacquard loom in the early nineteenth century, weavers in the Scottish town of Paisley began to produce shawls featuring its characteristic droplet shape; Victorian ladies were mad for them, and the design came to be known as the ‘paisley pattern’.

This shirt was commissioned by a Scottish lady who now lives in the USA. I hope the paisley design and the Scottish element in its history, remind her of home!

I love working with paisleys. Who would have thought that such a simple shape could have had so many variations? And it’s classic and elegant, but ever since it had its fashion comeback in the psychedelic 60s, it’s been a little bit hippy-dippy too.

This is Liberty’s design ‘Charles’, a new addition to the classic range this year. So pretty in this pastel blue!


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Viva Lewes – Americana Town!

This month our local magazine, Viva Lewes, has an Americana theme. They came to the workroom to interview me about Dandy & Rose for their regular My Space feature. There was much tidying up before their arrival!

viva lewes copy

They also featured Stevie Freeman, who is chair of the UK branch of the Americana Music Association and co-owns Union Music Store (where you can buy Dandy & Rose shirts)  with her musician husband Jamie. Stevie wore the dress I made her a couple of years ago for the photo.

stevie viva lewes copy

So if you want to experience Americana, best come to Lewes, East Sussex, England. We will dress you right and play you some great music!

To read Viva Lewes, go to http://www.vivalewes.com I am on page 81, Stevie on page 83

workroom

 


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Stealing Strawberries

‘Strawberry Thief’ is probably the best known of William Morris’ designs, inspired by the sight of the thrushes stealing fruit in his garden at Kelmscott Manor . He first made a successful print of it in 1883; the Victoria and Albert Museum hold this original sample, which is not a million miles away from the lively colourway that leapt out of the pattern book and grabbed the attention of my customer on the day she chose this shirt.

“That’s the one!” she shouted – and she was right.

Morris was a teenage hero of mine, and my interest in him was the first glimmer of my love of design history. The Arts and Crafts movement was based on his hatred of industrialisation and forlorn hope that we could return to smaller scale, cleaner methods of production that preserved traditional crafts. I hope if he could have seen me toiling away in my workroom, making a one-off western shirt in his beautiful design, that he would have approved.


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Danny Wilson’s blooming shirt

Angelica Garla for Danny Wilson Front left

 

Here at Dandy and Rose the flowers are blooming both in the garden and on Danny Wilson’s latest shirt.

He’ll be wearing the shirt over the summer at gigs to promote Danny & The Champions of the World’s brand new album, What Kind of Love. It’s a life-affirming slice of country soul and I highly recommend that you give it a listen – you can stream it at The Line of Best Fit:

http://www.thelineofbestfit.com/features/track-by-track/track-by-track-danny-the-champions-of-the-world-on-what-kind-of-love

Fearless as ever, Danny has chosen a riotous floral – Liberty’s ‘Angelica Garla’. I’ve made the yoke scalloped and added a smile pocket. I’ll be delivering it before The Champs’ gig at Islington Assembly Hall tomorrow evening. I can’t wait to see how it looks on Danny!