Dandy & Rose

Bespoke Western Shirts, Handmade in England


Cross Ways


Bias and cross cutting are a traditional way to add interest to western shirt yokes.

Usually when you cut out a garment, you do it on the ‘straight grain’ with each piece lined up vertically against the edge on the fabric, along the warp thread that runs the length of the fabric. But if you turn the pieces so that they line up either at an angle (bias) or horizontally to the edge, along the weft thread that runs across the fabric (cross grain), any design that’s on the fabric will go in a different direction on the finished garment. It’s one of those things that’s easier to do than explain. That was probably as clear as mud, but don’t worry, here’s the Wikipedia entry on it.


It’s a great technique for stripes and checks, like these two vintage shirts from Steven E. Weil and Daniel DeWeese’s Western Shirts book.


I don’t work with very many prints that lend themselves to being turned and turned about, but this Liberty design ‘Philip Clay’ was calling out to be realigned.

It’s got a look about it of Moroccan tiles, I think but it’s actually inspired by playing cards. But more of that when the shirt is finished!


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