Dandy & Rose

Bespoke Western Shirts, Handmade in England


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Viva Lewes – Americana Town!

This month our local magazine, Viva Lewes, has an Americana theme. They came to the workroom to interview me about Dandy & Rose for their regular My Space feature. There was much tidying up before their arrival!

viva lewes copy

They also featured Stevie Freeman, who is chair of the UK branch of the Americana Music Association and co-owns Union Music Store (where you can buy Dandy & Rose shirts)  with her musician husband Jamie. Stevie wore the dress I made her a couple of years ago for the photo.

stevie viva lewes copy

So if you want to experience Americana, best come to Lewes, East Sussex, England. We will dress you right and play you some great music!

To read Viva Lewes, go to http://www.vivalewes.com I am on page 81, Stevie on page 83

workroom

 


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Home from Nashville

It’s been a while since my last post!

I guess I must have been in recovery mode after my very exciting trip to the Americana Music Association Festival and Conference in Nashville back in September. And I’ve been catching up with shirt orders (photographs to follow!) as well as working on some features for Country Music People magazine.

It was my fourth AMA week and as always, it was jam-packed with goodies! It’s always a brilliant, inspiring musical week and though I come back exhausted, the memories make up for it. My report on the event will be in November’s Country Music People magazine.

http://www.countrymusicpeople.co.uk/

Quite apart from my journalistic duties, I got to go to the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum to see their wonderful Bakersfield exhibition, where amongst many other things, the cream of their collection of clothes made by the great western tailor Nathan Turk were on display. Turk is a little neglected – sidelined by his more flamboyant contemporary, Nudie – but his work is truly beautiful.

Here’s the ‘Grapes of Wrath’ suit he made for Fred Maddox of The Maddox Family Band – known in their day as ‘The Most Colorful Hillbilly Band in America.’

fred grapes of wrath

With my Dandy & Rose hat on (what does my Dandy & Rose hat look like? I must work on that) I got to make some new friends,  and to see my very special customer Jim Lauderdale host the AMA Honors and Awards Show at The Ryman Auditorium while wearing one of my shirts. From the collection I had taken along, he chose this one in the Liberty fans-and-ribbons print, ‘Wendy Woo’:

Just between you and me, I was hoping ruffles would be involved, but when I saw Jim onstage wearing his choice of shirt under a beautiful blue embroidered Manuel suit, I was not disappointed at all. He looked great. Not sure what makes that suit fabric so lustrous, but I am guessing maybe a touch of silk in the weave.

He was kind enough to pose for this picture after the show, too:

Photo by Rick Diamond, Getty Images

Photo by Rick Diamond, Getty Images

The Awards show is held in The Ryman Auditorium – the building known as ‘The Mother Church of Country Music’ – which was the home of the iconic radio show The Grand Ole Opry from 1943 until 1974. Many a western tailored suit has graced that stage, most of them festooned with embroidery and glittering with rhinestones. And yes, that means that Hank Williams stood there when he made his Opry debut in 1949 singing the hit ‘Lovesick Blues’. Did he really  have to reprise it six times at the demand of the crowd, or is that just an ole country music myth? Who cares? It may not be a literal truth, but it says it all about Hank’s famous charisma.

So just sitting in the audience at The Ryman is an experience full of resonance for any fan of country music. And to see something I made in my little workroom in Lewes up there, being worn by one of my favourite artists – well, I think my face says it all.


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More ruffles…

A couple of weeks ago, I posted photos of a ruffled paisley shirt that I had for sale on the Dandy & Rose etsy.com page. It was snapped up the same day so, because my mission is to bring paisley and ruffles to the world, I have made another one.

This one is in the Liberty of London classic paisley, Bourton. Find it for sale at

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/157565538/hand-made-one-of-a-kind-ruffled-shirt-in?ref=shop_home_active


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A Dandy & Rose by any other name…

I’m making a great paisley shirt for a lady in Germany at the moment but because the customer is buying it for her husband’s Christmas present, I can’t tell you about it. Ssssshhh.

So instead I thought I’d tell you where I got the ‘Dandy and Rose’ name. Back in early 2011, I was trying to think of a name that said ‘English western shirt’; I wanted to tie the idea of western styling with the Englishness of the Liberty prints I was using and, let’s be honest, the Englishness of me. Because I am very English.

It wasn’t easy. Then one day I was out and about in Lewes, where I live, and was browsing in a shop called Wickle. It’s quite quirky, and very Lewes. That’s all I’m saying.

Anyway, I saw this purse and fell in love with it. DSC00942

I thought it was so pretty, with all the embroidery and appliqué, and practical too. The first thing that caught my eye was the stamp with the words ‘English rose’ in the corner.

And then I noticed the word, ‘Dandy’ on an embroidered label on the side. Now, this was at the time when I was starting work on my MA dissertation, which was called ‘Hillbilly Deluxe: Male Dress and the Performance of Country Music.’ It was about the spangly suits that country singers wear, sometimes called ‘Nudie suits’, but also designed and made by Nathan Turk, Rodeo Ben, and these days by Manuel in Nashville and Jaime in North Hollywood. And just a couple of weeks earlier, I’d written a review of a show by the great Texan honky tonk singer, Dale Watson, where I’d commented, ‘what a dandy he is!’ And he is too. So dandies, men who lavish time and attention on their appearance, were something that preoccupied me. Especially dandy cowboys. I spent a lot of time tracking down the history of this song:

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6aNiMQStLw

with its poignant verse                 

‘He kissed me and hugged me and I called him my dandy

 The Trinity’s muddy and The Brazos quicksandy

 I kissed him and hugged him and called him my own

 Then down by the river, he left me alone.’

That’s the girl’s version by the way.

Suddenly I had my name – Dandy & Rose. It was one of those times that you rack your brains for ideas, then suddenly, chance brings the answer.

The labels are the work of my very talented MA classmate, Cecilia Ziko. I asked her to include a hummingbird because I love them, and because my favourite dandy quote was one that Jane Carlyle wrote in her diary in 1845:

‘Today, oddly enough, while I was engaged in re-reading Carlyle’s Philosophy of Clothes Countd’Orsay walked in! I had not seen him for four or five years.Last time he was as gay in his colours as a Humming Bird—blue satin cravat, blue velvet waistcoat, cream-coloured coat lined with velvet of the same hue, trousers also of a light colour—I forget what—white french gloves—two glorious breast-pins attached by a chain—and length enough of gold watchguard to have hanged himself in. Today, in compliment to his five more years, he was all in black and brown—a black satin cravat, a brown velvet waistcoat, a brown coat some shades darker than the waistcoat lined with velvet of its own shade and almost black trowsers—one breast-pin—a large pear-shaped pearl set into a little cup of diamonds—and only one fold of gold chain round his neck tucked together right on the centre of his spacious breast with one magnificent turquoise. Well! that man understands his trade!—if it be but that of Dandy; nobody can deny that he is a perfect Master of it, that he dresses himself with consummate skill! velvet of the same hue, trousers also of a light colour—I forget what—white french gloves—two glorious breast-pins attached by a chain—and length enough of gold watchguard to have hanged himself in.’

You can just hear Jane’s joy in the sight and contemplation of the Count, can’t you? Me too! I love a dandy!